The Art of the T – A T-shirt Odyssey

RGG Denim Vintage Soul Festival T-shirt

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The t-shirt has played an integral role in the lives of mankind from as early as the 19th century. It has been inspired by paradigm shifts and powerful movements in history. Consistently, it has emerged as a visual statement and a medium for communicating a message or stance in society. The t-shirt is fashion’s graphic contribution to lifestyle. This resonates strongly with Trinidadian designer, Jessel Brizan of The Jessel Brizan Design Group. Jessel is the curator behind The Art of the T. The Art of the T: A T-shirt Odyssey pays homage to the t-shirt. Brizan describes the virtual t-shirt exhibition as a t-shirt odyssey and a thematic exploration of t-shirt design. Some of these themes include Art, Revolution and Typography. The Art of the T is an online event that features updated versions of Brizan's designs available in limited quantities. Some of Brizan's labels featured in The Art of the T are Embryo, RGG Clothing Co. , Rgg Denim Co., Red Gold + Green and Urban Militia. Eco friendly fabrics, printing techniques and sustainable practices were considered in the curation of The Art of the T for the conscious consumer who is virtuous about their purpose in environmental and social responsibility. Regardless of its muse, the art of the T is partial to storytelling.

Urban Militia 'Born To Love' T-shirt

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The plain t-shirt tells a tale about the American labourers who cut their jumpsuits in half so they could better manage the sweltering heat of the warmer seasons. The t-shirt takes us on a maritime adventure to 1913 when the plain t-shirt was manufactured as an undershirt for the U.S. Navy. In 1948 Thomas E. Dewey, American presidential candidate distributed t-shirts decorated with his campaign slogan, “Dew It For Dewy.” In the 1950’s the t-shirt maneuvered the buoyancy of time and started an unnerving battle with the social code associated with the t-shirt's transition from undershirt to outwear attire. Furthermore, popular culture provoked this change with Hollywood actors like James Dean wearing the t-shirt solo to suit the rebellious nature of the character he played in the film, "Rebel Without a Cause". The time was opportune for the t-shirt uprising and people became creative. They embraced and explored the opportunity to decorate and embellish their tool of revolt, the t-shirt.

RGG Steel Soul Soca Unisex T-shirt in White 

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Soon the t-shirt design industry was seen as a sustainable and profitable industry for entrepreneurs. The momentum, invested interest and growing demand for the graphic t-shirt led to the invention of t-shirt printing machines that would then catapult the t-shirt industry. The 1970’s further fueled the demand for graphic t-shirts. It heralded the reverence of the punk era. It was a time when people found their voice and flooded fashion with graphic t-shirts that conveyed their sentiments about anything from current affairs to personal interest. The world was ripe with insurgence from the farce of equality for women’s rights, gay rights and civil rights. People were unafraid to use the graphic t-shirt as their way of speaking out against antagonistic issues which continued to pain the world.

RGG Denim Vintage Soul Festival Unisex T-shirt in Yellow

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Fast forward to the 21st century and t-shirts are still advocacy emblems. T-shirt activism became the strife of fashion designers who rejected the tirades of the presidential elect of 2017.  New York Fashion Week was presented as a platform for designers to stand united with all citizens negatively impacted by the changes from the new administration. A year prior to this event, fashion house Dior made their t-shirt debut with the statement, “We should all be feminists.” In 2017 models sashayed down the runway in protest t-shirts designed by international fashion designers like Prabal Gurung who was raised in Nepal. He included slogans on his soft knit t-shirts like “Our minds, our bodies, our power,” “Stronger than fear,” and “Revolution has no borders.” He was inspired by the recent Women’s March in New York which he participated in by walking with others to support the cause. Former Project Runway designer, Christian Siriano delivered his message with his shirts stating, “People are people”. Creatures of Comfort gave their contribution with silkscreened t-shirts capturing the words, “We are all human beings.” Together the t-shirt and its wearer would make memories that survive to depict the visual stories of an unforgettable moment in time.

RGG Kaya Roy Unisex T-shirt

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The Caribbean and by extension Trinidad and Tobago is also party to the graphic t-shirt from light activism to satirical nuances. In Jessel Brizan’s Art of the T, there is something for everyone. The fabrics used for the t-shirt construction in The Art of the T exhibition are soft, lightweight, ecofriendly and manufactured sustainably and ethically. The T-shirt odyssey expresses several themes. The Typography Series plays on the art and technique of arranging type to create artwork that is appealing and legible. The collection is inspired by traditional word games, abstract elements and geometric shapes. It is creative, colourful and highly recommended for the playful at heart, mind and soul. The Pop Art Series draws on the influence of iconic pop art designers like Roy Lichenstein, Andy Warhol and Peter Blake. The series also features the Urban Militia and RGG labels which represent local and global issues from the likes of British colonialism to the revolutionary Che Guevarra.

RGG Kaya Roy Unisex T-shirt in Pink Poui

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Jessel Brizan’s Art of the T exhibition is available for viewing and shopping online. Most of the t-shirts are crew neck and unisex to accommodate for everyone including the gender fluid and non-binary identity. Stylists advise that the opening of the neck of the t-shirt should rest close to the neck line. A quick style tip in choosing between the crew neck and the v-neck t-shirt is the length of one's neck. Persons with average length necks can choose either style. Persons with longer necks will benefit from deciding on the crew neck style versus the v-neck as the v-neck style will further elongate their already long neck. T-shirts can be worn fully untucked but stylists recommend half tucking the t-shirt for men who want a more stylish look. Lightly tucking in the T-shirt also helps to break up the body’s proportions so the wearer does not imitate any of the nefarious two or three dimensional shapes. Fit is critical in menswear so the size of the t-shirt selected must best suit the body type. The t-shirt should end between mid to upper crotch with preference given to mid length to avoid tummy flashing when arm stretching or lifting. The sleeves should end at mid bicep and they should lightly hug the arm without being too tight or too loose. A tailor is a wise investment for men who do not have the average body type and struggle to find the right fit.

RGG Geotype V2 Unisex T-shirt

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The Art of the T exhibition has a diverse range of design prints that makes each piece a great base for layering or as a statement piece when worn on its own. The never ending controversy over the appropriate age or time and place for wearing graphic T-shirts is still out for verdict. Stylists whose clients are honorary gentlemen have reserved the graphic T-shirt for their clients to wear at concerts and events. They believe this distinguishes gentlemen from their younger selves and aligns with the sophisticated sense of style for their mature clientele. On the other hand, T-shirt bantons insist on wearing them all day, every day, in every way and everywhere. T-shirt aficionados confounded about which style direction to choose can rest assured that they can trust their intuition and let their inner compass guide them. If all else fails, they can book a stylist who is an expert in this field. In any case the wearer is guaranteed that any selection from The Art of the T takes the wearer on a journey through life and style. The t-shirt offers the opportunity to represent identity and to allow the wearer to visually express themselves wherever they go whether for travel and leisure or travel with a purpose. The t-shirt becomes the solace for the wearer who can stand in their power knowing that the Caribbean community, history and identity also stands with them.

The Chambray Shirt – An Impetus For Change

Style Inspo: Football legend, David Beckham dresses up his chambray shirt with matching sports coat and trousers for H & M Modern Essentials  campaign photo shoot.                (Photo Credit: E-Online )

Historians have traced chambray’s origins to the mid 1500’s. The plain weave cotton chambray is often mistaken for denim. Chambray is not denim because it is woven differently. Unlike denim it is softer, lighter and thinner in its fabric construction. These characteristics make chambray an excellent addition to any wardrobe despite being more suited for persons living in climates prone to arid conditions and humidity. The advantage of chambray’s finely woven texture is its high thread count which accounts for a more breathable and longer lasting fabric. This is guaranteed to keep its wearer stylish and literally cool. It is yet another reason why it is considered a staple especially in designing shirt collections for men. However, there is more to this fabric than its physical aesthetic. Astoundingly, chambray transcends all generations with a relatable message that is familiar to all travelers who experience this journey called life.  Chambray’s story is steeped in a tale about a revolutionary past, a thought provoking present and a vision of hope for the future.

Style Guide: Chambray Shirt + Chino Shorts in Light Gray + Men's Braided Laced Up Loafers in Gray + Watch + Wallet + Aviators in silver accents and tones.                                          Shop RGG Denim Co. Island Chambray Shirt (click to shop your 'must have' chambray shirt)

Intriguingly, the name Chambray is derived from the English spelling of the French word “Cambrai”. Cambrai was a French town associated with a lightweight and plain weave fabric similar to chambray. The chambray shirt became popular in the early twentieth century among the American labourers who donned chambray shirts and denim trousers to work. The indigo dyed fabric became a favourite for plant operators, drillers, miners and other skilled workers of the blue collar class because it did a better job at masking the grime and dirt that soiled their clothing due to their working environment and conditions. It is this moment in history that also birthed the name “blue collar” earmarking the skilled labourers by the blue collar chambray shirts which they wore in the manual and industrial fields of work in contrast to the “white collars” of office and managerial workers.  The chambray shirt became the premier choice for the U.S. Navy’s uniform in 1901 until World War II because of its durability, practicality and rugged aesthetic. Nevertheless, America was not alone in adopting the chambray shirt and its blue collar identity. Australia also became a living testament of this distinction between worker stereotypes.

Style Inspo: Style icon, David Beckham in long sleeve chambray shirt, black chinos and chelsea boots. (Photo Credit : Pinterest)

Globally, the classification of workers based on the new collar classification sparked an unwavering interest from groups who could no longer turn a blind eye to the exponential growth of unjustified working terms and conditions for the blue collar workers. Europe, Britain, Australia and America saw the establishment and the rise of labour movements and trade unions that challenged employers, advocated and fought for the blue collar workers who toiled in hazardous conditions. Trinidad was not exempted from this movement as trade unions mediated the biggest women led industrial strike in its history. In 1939, The Reknown Factory owned by Phillipa Mahanna Haddaway and her husband ceased operations due to an industrial strike led by women only garment workers. The trade union that represented them demanded a 12.5% increase for the underpriced and overworked women garment workers. Workers from shirt factories such as Sabga’s Shirt Factory, Briks and Chizer and Straumwaser also joined the strike in solidarity with the women.

Style Guide: Chambray Shirt + Checked Wool-Silk Jacket + Wool Trousers in Gray + Brown Oxfords + Leather Backpack + Belt + Watch Shop RGG Denim Co. Island Chambray Shirt (click to shop and style your chambray shirt)

Traditionally, chambray fabric was used to create shirts. It was only after World War II that it served as a muse for fashion. When the war ended the chambray shirt became an inspiration for Hollywood actors and actresses. Soon the trend caught on and the chambray fabric became a flexible way to get creative in styling the denim look without the additional weight and features of the denim fabric. Today, chambray shirts are still worn by both men and women but it is no longer designated for the workplace nor a certain classification of workers. The chambray shirt continues to dominate the fashion scene. It is stylists’ leading choice in building a foundation wardrobe for men. Stylists fancy the chambray shirt because it is an essential and versatile men’s shirt. It transitions exceptionally well from daytime to nighttime.

Style Inspo: International Celebrity, David Beckham in semi buttoned down, monogrammed chambray shirt, black chinos and signature white t-shirt at a former FIFA World Cup event. (Photo Credit: Pinterest)

The sartorial features of the chambray shirt reveal that it’s an ideal choice for travel. The chambray shirt is not a seasonal item which means it can be worn all year round. Men who are travelling for business or leisure and love to pack light can enjoy more than one look from the same shirt regardless of the destination’s climate. They can layer it with coats, jackets and sweaters or  dress it up for an evening out. Likewise, they can opt to dress it down by wearing it on its own and pairing it with the right wash, fit and length of tailored chinos, jeans or trousers. The chambray shirt is a "must have" article of clothing for men who are ready to transition from their college “frat boy” lifestyle and graduate to the gentlemen’s club.

Trinidad has not been excluded from the chambray shirt affair. The chambray shirt is more than a trend in styling menswear locally. It is a reminder of the resolve to continue to contend for the rights of others. Trinidadian designer, Jessel Brizan is the beautiful mind behind The Jessel Brizan Design Group (JBDG) and the commemoration of the Island Chambray Shirt under his label RGG Denim Co. In addition to being the founder of JBDG, he is an educator, distinguished fashion professional, published author, mentor and philanthropist. Brizan has almost a decade of combined international and regional experience and expertise in fashion which has proven to be instrumental in transforming the local fashion industry. He has committed his concept and philosophy in business to philanthropy through fashion in a move to nurture a culture of giving in all aspects of life and business.

Style Inspo: Football icon, menswear guru and entrepreneur extraordinaire, David Beckham is wearing rolled sleeves with his chambray shirt, white chinos and sneakers.      (Photo Credit: PopSugar)

It is no surprise that this class act designer has added the chambray shirt to his collection. He is able to espouse the history of the people of this world and their concerted victories whilst continuing to bring awareness to the battle for human rights, fair trade and ethics with the chambray shirt. Brizan understands that the person who wears the chambray shirt is not only making a home for an essential piece in building their basic collection. The wearer is also making a conscious decision to make a statement by wearing a symbol of the strength and the resilience of a global people and their continued wager for the restitution of workers’ rights worldwide.  The Island Chambray Shirt from the RGG Denim Co. label is currently in stock and available for order online for anyone to access and be part of the movement. Undeniably, an informed decision to wear a chambray shirt for travel and lifestyle is a decision to live with intention and the conviction of purpose. Chambray is more than an essential shirt; it signifies the impetus for change.